Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from this week’s couture shows
If the ready-to-wear shows are about selling product, Paris’ haute couture shows, staged each year in January and July, are about selling the dream. During the Spring-Summer 2021 season, which took place from January 25 to 28, the few designers working in this rarefied space once again came together — this time, virtually — to parade their most fantastical designs.
Kim Jones brings the stars out at Fendi
Ever since he was first announced as the successor to the late Karl Lagerfeld, the industry has been eagerly waiting to see what Dior menswear designer Kim Jones would do as Fendi’s new head of womenswear and couture — especially considering that he’d never officially designed in either category.
The grandiosity and artistry was all but eclipsed by the star-studded cast, which included actress Demi Moore and 1990s supermodels Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. It was also something of a family affair: Moss’ 18-year-old daughter, Lila Grace, and Turlington’s nephew, former professional baseball player James Turlington, were also included, as were the daughters of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the house’s creative director for accessories, menswear and children.
Charles de Vilmorin makes his colorful couture debut
In December, less than a year after launching his custom business, 24-year-old Charles de Vilmorin, a graduate of the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, was invited to appear as a guest member at the haute seam week And with a bombastic debut, he’s established himself as one to watch
In his video presentation, de Vilmorin’s friends wear his new designs or are covered in rainbows of body make-up There are bold-shouldered coats, mini-dresses with built-in breasts, and short puffer coats covered in butterflies, hearts, flowers, and faces, hand-painted by the designer himself
So far, de Vilmorin has already been awarded the seal of approval by the designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Last fall, he also took part in GucciFest, the Italian brand’s fashion and film festival After this performance, his fan base is sure to grow
Valentino proposes casual couture
Last summer, working with British photographer Nick Knight, Valentino delivered a great drama with a live video showing models perched on spinning bands or aerial rings (all the better to show off the exaggerated proportions of the Fall-Winter 2020 collection). But this season, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli brought things back to earth
In a video titled “Temporal”, models wearing the new collection walked through an ornate room in the baroque Galleria Colonna in Rome There were the usual glorious moments of dazzling and sparkling, in sleeveless tops covered in jewels, metallic platform heels, and jumpsuit with sequins, but for the most part day wear took center stage: oversized trench coats, turtlenecks, and chinos; Poplin shirts and second skin dresses; and a cashmere-lined hoodie thrown in for good measure
“My idea is to witness the moment,” Piccioli told Vogue before the debut. “It’s more about pieces that give an ease”.
Chanel stages a grand wedding at the Grand Palais
During his tenure at Chanel, the late Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into everything from a supermarket to a rocket ship. But this year, creative director Virginie Viard hit an entirely different note on an intimate personal matter.
“I knew we couldn’t organize a big show, that we would have to invent something else, so I came up with the idea of a small cortège that would come down the stairs of the Grand Palais and pass beneath arches of flowers,” Viard said in her show notes. “Like a family celebration, a wedding… ”
Chanel only invited a small guest list – including brand ambassadors Penelope Cruz, Marion Cotillard and Vanessa Paradis, who were all sitting far apart – to witness the presentation live from spring to summer 2021 In the video of the shoot, which the photographer Anton Corbijn recorded with drones and handheld cameras, the models first stepped onto the flower-strewn runway in a smiling, happy mob to a slowed-down cover of the Ronettes classic “Be My Baby” The clothes themselves, modern and romantic, included ruffled boleros, organza skirts and embroidered dresses in pastel shades, as well as sleeveless tweed pantsuits and stunning see-through dresses with well-placed pockets – suitable options for all types of guests.
Christian Dior brings the tarot to life
At a time when the future feels less predictable than ever before, Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri took divination inspiration and presented a dramatic collection inspired by tarot
“(Tarot card symbols) provide insight into a magical world that allows us to explore the unknown and look inside ourselves,” Grazia Chiuri said in a post on Instagram.
In “Le château du tarot”, directed by Matteo Garrone, a young woman wanders through a Tuscan palazzo and meets living incarnations of some of the Major Arcana of the tarot, such as “The Fool” and “The High Priestess”, each dressed with the Spring-Summer 2020 Collection.
In terms of design, there are many of Grazia Chiuri’s usual hallmarks, including romantic sheer, jacquard and velvet dresses. Justice “primarily sits in high-necked green silk, while” The Devil “prefers a deep neckline Death “prefers periwinkle blue and a chainmail veil.